Section 01
Explanation of Terms Used
In sewing and pattern making, blocks are the 5 foundational pieces used to build any pattern — the front bodice, back bodice, sleeve, front skirt, and back skirt (plus front and back trouser blocks). Think of blocks as your master templates. They are never cut or used directly on fabric. Instead, they are traced onto paper and adapted to the style you want — by moving darts, adding seams, fullness, collars, cuffs, and more.
A pattern is what you get after adapting your blocks to a specific style. The blocks always stay the same shape, but the pattern pieces change depending on what you are making. It is important to understand the difference — your blocks are your foundation, your pattern is your design.
This simply means to draw a line at a perfect right angle (90°) to the line you just drew. You will hear this often in pattern drafting instructions.
To fold out a dart means to fold the pattern along one edge of the dart and bring it to meet the other edge, so the dart disappears. You can also fold out just half the dart by folding to the center point instead.
Balance points are small marks placed on two corresponding pattern pieces to show exactly how they should be lined up and joined together. They take the guesswork out of assembly.
Section 02
Pattern Markings & Abbreviations
When you look at a pattern, you will see several symbols and markings. Here is what they mean:
You will see these short forms used throughout all JDH tutorials and workshops:
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| M/ment | Measurement |
| U/Arm | Under Arm |
| AH | Armhole |
| S/H | Sleevehead |
| CF | Center Front |
| CB | Center Back |
| FL | Front Length |
| BL | Back Length |
| AF | Across Front |
| AB | Across Back |
| BW | Bust Width |
| BH | Bust Height |
| SL | Sleeve Length |
| SH | Shoulder |
Scale Note: All diagrams in JDH tutorials are drawn to ¼ scale, except for capes which are drawn to 1/8 scale.
Section 03
Sewing Terminology
Common sewing terms you will come across in JDH tutorials and workshops.
Basting is a temporary stitch — long running stitches made by hand or machine — used to hold fabric pieces together before your permanent stitches are sewn. Think of it as a trial run before you commit.
A lining is a separate piece of fabric sewn inside a garment or bag to give it a clean, finished look on the inside. It hides raw seams and adds a professional touch.
Notions are all the accessories and supplies used in a sewing project — zippers, thread, buttons, hooks, ribbons, and anything else that is not the main fabric itself.
A pattern is a template made from paper or cardboard. You trace the pattern pieces onto your fabric, cut them out, and assemble them to create your finished item.
A seam is the line where two pieces of fabric are joined together by stitching. It is the backbone of every garment.
Seam allowance is the strip of fabric between the cut edge and the stitch line. In JDH tutorials, the standard seam allowance is ½ inch (0.5").
A top stitch is a line of stitching sewn on the right side of the fabric, parallel to a seam or edge. It can be decorative or used to add strength and structure to a garment.
Section 04
Taking Measurements
Getting accurate measurements is one of the most important skills in sewing. Inaccurate measurements lead to poor fit, extra fitting sessions, and unnecessary recutting — all things we want to avoid. There are two reasons we take measurements: to determine the size of the body, and to understand the body's proportions so the garment fits correctly.
Observe the body from the front, back, and side before you begin. Note any variations like sloping or square shoulders, and the posture of the figure. Skill in taking measurements accurately comes with practice — it may help to practice on a dress form first.
Before you begin, keep these rules in mind:
- Tie a piece of elastic or string around the waist first — this defines the exact waist position, especially important at the back
- Measurements can be taken over fitted clothing or underclothes
- Always measure in the same order every time so nothing gets missed
- Do not add ease while measuring — ease is added later during pattern drafting
- Study the side view of the figure in addition to the front and back for a better read on posture and proportion
Section 05
Pattern-Making Tools
Having the right tools makes pattern drafting so much easier. Here is a rundown of the tools you will use most often in JDH workshops and tutorials.
Used exclusively for cutting fabric. Never use them on paper — it dulls the blade quickly. Keep a dedicated pair just for fabric and treat them well.
A separate pair used only for cutting paper patterns. Keeping these separate from your fabric scissors protects both pairs.
A small handheld tool with a spiked rolling wheel used to transfer pattern markings onto fabric or tracing paper. Run it along the pattern lines to copy them accurately.
Every sewist's best friend. A small hook-shaped tool used to remove stitches when you need to undo a seam or correct a mistake. Use it slowly and carefully to avoid damaging the fabric.
A flexible measuring tape used to take body measurements and measure curved areas on patterns and fabric. Keep one in your sewing space at all times.
A curved ruler specifically shaped to help you draw smooth, accurate armhole curves on your patterns. It saves time and gives you a professional result.
Similar to the armhole curve but shaped for drawing hip lines, side seams, and other gradual curves on patterns.
A punch-like tool that cuts small notches into the edge of your pattern pieces. These notches are used as alignment markers when joining pattern pieces together during sewing.
A ruler shaped like an "L" used to draw perfect right angles on your patterns. Essential for squaring out lines and keeping your pattern drafting accurate.
A semi-transparent gridded paper used for drafting patterns. The grid makes it easier to measure and draw straight, accurate lines.
A plain white roll of paper used as an affordable alternative to pattern paper. It is inexpensive and widely available at most craft or restaurant supply stores.
A sturdy brown paper used for making more durable pattern pieces, especially block patterns that will be traced and used repeatedly over time.